Selling Hype pt. 1

In this generation of hyper connectedness, it is hard to deny the influence of social media is a pivotal element in the lives of everyone and their pets. Not literally, but people can be exposed to social media as soon as they are given a mobile device. Nowadays, with the engrainment of social media in society, it has become more apparent that people- especially millennials, teens and even children- are rid of individuality and develop a uniform opinion on fashion and the latest trends.

Consequently, by seeing the uprise of a certain brand in popularity, lots of this demographic in question are likely inclined towards that brand for the sake of its general public opinion. Oftentimes these brands are criticized for products designed with undeniable simplicity but the listed prices, let alone resale prices, are jacked up out of proportion. The question is, therefore: who is to blame for these unjust prices? Are consumers willingly paying four-figure prices for clothing, or is this because of cleverly devised marketing?

(Odell Beckham Jr.)

A supreme ruse

If unfamiliar with this scene, one prime example of lavish simplicity is from a globally-known skate brand Supreme.

(Supreme ‘Box Logo’)

One could argue that this iconic fashion goliath is attributed with pioneering artistic streetwear, but products that continually spark controversy are the plain t-shirts and hoodies merely marked with a red rectangle and bold white ‘Supreme’ text commonly known as the ‘Box Logo’, some editions of which can be sold for hundreds, if not thousands of US dollars.

The Box Logo originally emerged in 1994 by the opening of the Supreme skate store in Lafayette, New York, to celebrate the store’s launch. Founded by James Jebbia, the store then sold merchandise of other popular skate brands such as Zoo York, Stussy and Spitfire. The Box logo, inspired by Barbara Kruger’s conceptual art, along with two other of the store’s own t-shirt designs would soon outsell those of the other brands in the store, later becoming staple fashion pieces among downtown New York.

(A$ap Rocky rocking Supreme)

Although not at the degree of ubiquity as of the present, Supreme garms could be seen worn by celebrities from as early as the early 2000s. Its popularity was then catalyzed to its all-presence now when seen worn by the likes of the most influential individuals: Members of Odd Future (including Tyler, The Creator), A$ap Rocky and Kanye West. From this point the brand’s notoriety only skyrocketed, becoming one of the world’s most recognizable fashion labels, at least among today’s youth.

(A cool guy)

Like many others, the brand that was once a beloved element of the skater fashion subculture, due to the primary contributing factor being social media, has now caught the attention of the vast approval-seeking generation stemming from social networks, in other words, 'hypebeasts'. Its desirability among younger audiences quickly grew for it became an essential clothing brand that could make you seem cool and trendy, a status symbol, rather than being garments to express your appreciation for design, messages the brand sometimes address and artistry in the skating scene and thus, with booming demand comes excessive markups.

...or supreme delusion?

A deeper look into Supreme’s portfolio of apparel and accessories through the decades reveal that it may only be very few pieces, like the Box Logo tees and hoodies, that seem absurdly overpriced, and even so, it doesn’t take even a shallow look into the brand for one to question whether the brand is in the wrong for paycheck price tags.

The only sources for the most desirable products are streetwear and other fashion boutiques, online forums and marketplaces. Notice how this list doesn’t entail retail locations. The magnetic demand for Supreme has been farming long lines outside of Supreme stores for years, whether in Paris, New York, Los Angeles or Dubai, which usually end with most stores being bought out in a matter of hours, if not minutes on ‘drop days’- days of the release of new items.

(Line outside of the San Francisco Supreme store, opening day)

Depending on collaboration with other brands, uniqueness, aesthetics and attention of the announced pieces set to release in a particular season, some items will be more sought after than others. Regardless, the most preferable Supreme items end up for resale by individuals in the ever-growing fashion reselling business, from which the prices would peak based on exclusivity, condition and demand.

(Another cool guy)

Collaborations with dozens of notable brands like Louis Vuitton, Nike, Commes Des Garcons and The North Face have delivered a myriad of clothing and accessories, some of which have avante-garde elements of elegance, quality and high fashion charm. In similar cases, the high resale prices of select items can be justified for they are sometimes considered ‘Grails’ of fashion due to historic and artistic significance, unlike the plain cotton Box Logos.

(Supreme x North Face Skyline Jacket, 2008. Made with printed Gore-Tex, a fabric of weatherproof technology. $1000+ US resale price. Considered a Supreme grail.)

(Supreme Jim Krantz Cowboy Denim Jacket. $168 US retail, around $850 US resale price.)

Contrarily, the retail price of the average Box Logo t-shirt is $38 US- a relatively standard price for higher end t-shirts. Reasonable (by some standards). And the average resell price for the same t-shirts in the resale market can be anywhere between $100 to over $400 US, depending on the edition and condition. More than double the retail price.

Ultimately, there exists a sequence which perpetuates in the ‘hypebeast’ fashion subculture, not only surrounding Supreme but other brands as well, where popularity of some items, often due to celebrity endorsement and the influence of social media, sparks a chain reaction which results in the selling out of certain items for them to reappear in the resale market where, because of the lingering desire for those items, their value increases dramatically. Due to this achieved exclusivity, people would pay top dollar so the value only appreciates as long as there is decreasing supply and increasing demand.

In summary, the prices' inflation is simply for the hype.

In the end companies like Supreme are immortalized as a beloved brand who will almost undeniably be able to sell all that they produce. Even if their designs are just an already-existent shoe stamped with a small Supreme logo.

(Supreme X Nike Air Force 1. $96 US retail, around $300 US resale price.)

Supreme has also released a brick. A literal brick, with ‘Supreme’ on it, which also has a ridiculous resale value. Overall, this goes to show how little brands like Supreme are able to do and, although be the topic of some controversy, stay enthroned all the while also being a study for a puzzling dilemma in today’s consumer culture, fueled by hype.

(Supreme Clay Brick. $35 retail, $100+ resale. Seen listed for $1000 US on eBay.com.)